The floodgates of new arrivals for SIHH have only just begun to open, but Vacheron Constantin appears at the forefront. As they’ve already unveiled a “Traditionnelle” model that we mentioned last week. While today, we take a look at their new “Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date”.
The Patrimony collection SIHH 2017 properly reflects the expertise of this Swiss brand which has been in operation for over 122 years. Its minimalistic approach to design is in accordance with the models created in the 1950’s by the Maison. Very similar to what we find on the dial of this new Patrimony model. But, although apparently simplistic, behind the surface are innumerous components grinding away to keep two major complications at the right beat.
The 42.5mm round case is available in either 18k white gold or 18k pink gold. All time and complication adjustments are done via the three positions available by pulling out the crown. Its transparent caseback allows to gaze in at their new in-house mechanical movement and observe the 22k gold oscillating weight, adorned with Vacheron Constantin’s trademark Maltese cross motif. These hand-crafted finishes on the caliber exemplify the level of mastery we can except from these horology veterans.
A silvered opaline dial exhibits time via tapered applied hour-markers in 18k pink or 18k white gold depending on the optioned version. Also includes a circular “pearl” minute track and slim hands made of the same gold as each corresponding case material, pointing out the current time.
A retrograde date display appears in the upper half of the dial. It features a central hand, bearing a color achieved by a black oxide process and an openworked arrow tip, which moves forward in one day increments. And once the month is complete, the retrograde system instantly returns to its initial position and begins to run out the days in the same mode again.
The Moonphase also appears on a pink or white gold disc depending on the chosen version. The moon shines over a star-studded backdrop and is seen through an opening in the lower half of the dial. This complication has been fined tuned to achieve a precise accuracy, while keeping up with the real lunar cycle around the Earth, which tends to last 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. It does require a one-day correction every 122 years, which doesn’t seem like that much of a hassle.
This “Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase And Retrograde Date” (References below) is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 2460 R31L, with 27 jewels, 275 components and 2,800 vph. Power reserve on this timepiece can last up to 40 hours and water-resistance can reach up to 30 meters (98 feet). Mounted to the watch is a black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, with large scales, an alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finished and secured to the wrist by a polished 18k pink or white gold pin buckle (varying with chosen model), with a half Maltese cross-shape logo.
Ref#: 4010U/000R-B329 – 18k Pink Gold
Ref#: 4010U/000G-B330 – 18k White Gold
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