This year Patek Philippe has come with a grand load of new offerings for Baselworld 2016. And in the midst of perpetual calendars, minute repeaters and new ladies watches. They have re-launched their “World Time” model line and created a new in-house movement in order to contain a world-time indication simultaneously with a chronograph, introducing the: “Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph”.
The round 39.5mm case is made of 18k white gold and has a sapphire crystal caseback which allows to view the movement. The chronograph pushers are in their standard spots: start button at the 2 o’clock position and stop button at the 4 o’clock position. While a simple press of the pusher-button at the 10 o’clock position will adjust the time of the cities by a 1 hour increment, allowing for a quick time zone adjustment. This timepiece is also covered by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal which assists in keeping it water-resistant up to 30 meters (100 feet).
The blue opaline dial is hand-guilloché and has hour index markers with luminescent coating. Although it’s three-zone dial combines silvery elements with the overall blue, creating a pleasant legibility for the other 23 world time-zones and chronograph timings. The outermost ring is a blue disk were can be read 24 city names corresponding to 24 time-zones. The next ring is a white chronograph scale divided into ¼ second increments. And the third ring is a 24-hour ring with day/night indication and sun/moon icons. Day-time is represented by blue numerals on a silver background; while night-time is represented with white numerals on a blue background.
Towards the center of the dial our sight is pleasantly drawn to gaze at the manually adorned guilloché pattern. The dauphine hands are 18k white gold and have a Superluminova coating for enhanced legibility. There is a 30-minute counter sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position, with a baton-style rhodiumed steel hand, which is counterbalanced. The parfil chronograph hand is also made of rhodiumed steel.
Although some have stated this is the first time Patek Philippe has manufactured a watch with a world timer and chronograph. It seems there was a predecessor made in the 1940’s that also featured a pulsimeter and asthmometer scale. That watch model reference# 1415 HU, may well have inspired this current release debuting at Baselworld 2016
Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph
This “Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph” (Ref#: 5930G) is powered by a self-winding in-house mechanical movement, caliber CH 28-520 HU, with 38 jewels, 343 components and 28,800 vph. Also features a column-wheel control and a vertical clutch. Power reserve on this timepiece can last up to 55 hours. Mounted to this watch is a matte navy blue hand-stitched alligator strap with square scales and an 18k white gold fold-over clasp.
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Another new release is the “Patek Philippe World Time ref#: 5230” which supersedes all previous models because politically motivated modifications of the World Time order called for a new time-zone scale. Certain time-zones were assigned different cities, while others changed zones. Like Moscow that was located in the UTC+4 zone, but has now shifted one hour closer to the Western Europe zone, entering the UTC+3 time-zone. Patek took this opportunity to subtly rework the dial, case and hands on this new reference model, for a nearly eighty year old model line.
Other modifications that can be detected on this re-envisioned timepiece are the: winglet-style lugs and the narrow and smoothly polished bezel. The 27.5mm case is available in either 18k white or rose gold. The hands have also been swapped from a: ringed hour hand and a dauphine minute; for a pierced hour hand with a silhouette that recalls the famous “Southern Cross” constellation and the minute hand features a lozenage-shaped contour. The hour index markers and hands are crafted from 18k white or rose gold to match the select case material.
The prominently white dial features a black traced filigreed woven pattern. This design was inspired by a precious pocket watch on display at the Patek Philippe Museum. Although the original guilloché was originally coated with blue flinqué enamel. These nearly extinct handcrafting expertise have been carefully preserved and passed down from one generation to the next at Patek Philippe, as well as the equipment. The manually controlled rose engine required to guilloché dials is nearly one hundred years old, but is constantly serviced and works as reliably now as it did then.
There is a small red arrow at the 12 o’clock position pointing out the local time-zone. The dial exhibits Arabic numerals in a 24-hour scale, with half of the numeral ring in white with black numerals and a sun icon for day-time; and the other half in black with white numerals and a moon icon for night time. When traveling in to another time-zone a simple press on the pusher located at the 10 o’clock position, will advance the hour hand by one hour, while the city disk and the 24-hour ring will move by one increment in the counterclockwise direction.
Patek Philippe World Time
This “Patek Philippe World Time” (Ref#: 5230) is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 240 HU, with 35 jewels and 21,600 vph. Also features the patented Spiromax balance spring and Gyromax balance. Power reserve on this timepiece can last up to 48 hours. Mounted to the watch is a hand-stitched alligator strap with large square scales. The 18k white gold version has a black strap with a Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18k white gold. While the 18k rose gold version has a shiny chocolate brown strap with a Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18k rose gold.
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