Many brands wisely seek inspiration from their back catalogues, before reissuing certain models. But, they tend to shed light on one vintage timepiece at a time. So, it’s quite refreshing and tantalizing on the mind to encounter a Patek Philippe that clearly has sought out and implemented shades of various watches on this one new “Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar”, at Baselworld 2017.
Part of the enjoyment this timepiece incites for those true horologist aficionados, or geeks as modern trends like to say; resides in properly identifying what vintage watches inspired which elements found on this new contemporary release. We could reference and speculate about some of them here, but they say ‘a word is worth a thousand pictures’; and since Patek Philippe has made an extensive video where they thoroughly dissect this timepiece, let’s follow their cue and take a look.
Video courtesy of: Patek Philippe
The 40mm case is made of 18k white gold with a transparent case back, which allows to see the 21k yellow gold central rotor, Gyromax® balance, gold-filled engravings and Geneva striping. Its three-tier slightly downturned lugs composition was inspired by a previous Patek Philippe (Ref#: 2405) that was manufactured in the 1950’s.
It’s covered by a box-type sapphire crystal that elevates the case height, by being elevated higher than the bezel. Water-resistance on this watch can reach up to 30 meters (96 feet).
Time is exhibited on a cream-colored dial with applied 18k white gold Arabic numerals and sharp-tipped rectangular “syringe style” hands. Numerals, additional dots and hands have all been fitted with a luminescent material, for enhanced legibility. A ring of minute index markers can also be seen circling the dial in a quasi-railroad track motif. There are also two aperture windows to showcase the current weekday and month, under the 12 o’clock position.
At the 6 o’clock position is a Moonphase indicator, surrounded by a day dial pointed out by a single smaller 18k white gold hand. The moon-phase we find here requires a correction by one day, after every 122 year interval. Novel enhancements to the dial include a small day/night aperture between the 7 and 8 o’clock position; as well as a small aperture for the leap year cycle symmetrically positioned between the 4 and 5 o’clock positions. Much of these dial schematics have been employed on all perpetual calendar timepieces made by Patek Philippe since 1941.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar
This “Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar” (Ref#: 5320G) is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 324 S Q with 29 jewels, 367 parts and 28,800 Vph. Power reserve on this timepiece can last up to 45 hours, when fully wound. Mounted to the watch is a chocolate brown alligator strap, with large square scales and secured to the wrist by an 18k white gold deployant buckle.
MSRP: $82,800.00 USD
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