Patek Philippe only needed a couple of releases to turn heads and make an impact at Baselworld 2018. Among those prominent timepieces was the new salmon colored dial “Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P”, for their “Grand Complications” collection.
What we have here is the latest version of the perpetual calendar chronograph that Patek Philippe first introduced back in 2011 with their 5270 reference model. Since then is has been reissued in various color schemes and precious metals, such as the 5270G from 2013 and we covered a simpler “Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar” (Ref#: 5320G) version that was released at Baselworld 2017 and was reviewed here.
But, of all the distinct editions Patek Philippe has manufactured of this highly complicated and desirable timepiece, this one just might be the most unique of all. This claim is tied to its salmon dial which is an exquisite color, not as commonly used on luxury watches and often being associated to rare special edition Patek’s.
The 41mm case is made of platinum with a transparent case back, which allows to view the inner workings of the intricate mechanical movement. You can’t go wrong with a stainless-steel or titanium watch, but these platinum Patek Philippe’s are just as coveted. Plus this model comes with a small diamond between the lugs at the 6 o’clock position, which is a subtle feature regularly found on all platinum Patek’s.
It also comes equipped with two square pusher pieces for the chronograph functions with a wide setting-crown in-between them. Overall this watch wears rather large on the wrist and its stylish flared lugs only accentuate its size more, adding to its wrist presence. Thickness wise it comes in at about 12.4mm, which is roughly a standard size for this sort of timepiece. Topped by a sapphire crystal that assists with water-resistance on this watch being able to reach up to 30 meters (98 feet).
Time is exhibited on a salmon dial with golden opaline blackened gold applied Arabic numerals. While further out from the numerals towards the edges of the dial is a black printed railroad-motif minute index ring with Arabic numerals for every 5-minute increment, followed by a tachymeter scale ring circling the dial right near the bezel. There are three sub-dials: a 30-minute counter at the 3 o’clock position; a calendar dial with a Moonphase in its midst at the 6 o’clock position and a sub-seconds at the 9 o’clock position.
The central and sub-dial hands have all been crafted out of black gold, which is a much welcomed uncommon material option that makes this watch a bit more unique. These hands paired with the salmon color background and the brown leather strap have rendered this watch an instant classic. Also includes two white aperture windows on the upper-half of the dial with the current day and month indications.
The Moonphase we have here is a disc cut from a wafer of corundum crystal (sapphire) decorated with golden stars and two golden moons against a blue or white background within an aperture. The gold condensed on the disc was achieved via a vacuum process through a photographic mask that creates the shape of the moons and stars. A cut on the upper edge of the aperture was applied to represent the lunar cycle.
And also features two small round aperture indications which are a: day/night indicator between the 7 and 8 o’clock positions; and a leap year indicator between the 4 and 5 o’clock positions.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P
This “Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P” (Ref#: 5270P-001) is powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement, caliber CH 29-535 PS Q with 33 jewels, 456 parts and 28,800 Vph. Equipped with a Gyromax® balance and a Breguet balance spring. Power reserve on this timepiece can last up to 65 hours, when fully wound.
Mounted to the watch is a hand-stitched brown alligator strap with square scales, secured to the wrist by a platinum deployment buckle. For more up to date information visit the official Patek Philippe website here.
MSRP: $187,110.00 USD
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