The brand Cartier has always been associated with jewelry and more in sync with its feminine side. But, they’ve been trying to widen their range, with new distinct models, like when they issued the “Ronde Croisiere” as a sports watch. Now, at SIHH 2016 they’ve come on big presenting 6 new editions to some of their best model lines: Clé De, Crash, Rotonde, Panthères Et Colibri. As well as the new Cartier Drive aimed once again at their growing male audience.
People who carve their own path are known as pioneers, entrepreneurs, leaders; people with “drive”. This was the thought process behind Cartier’s newest men’s watch collection the “Cartier Drive”. The direct inspiration for design purposes came from a vintage automotive. Resulting in a wide yet thin, rounded form that seems smoothly settled on the wrist.
The 42mm case is available in pink gold or steel, with a black, grey or white guilloché dial marked with Roman numerals and sword shaped hands. On the flip-side we find an exhibition case revealing the Cartier in-house movement 1904 MC, which is also available in two versions. Either the “1904-PS MC” which tells hours, minutes, small seconds and date; or, the “1904-FU MC” which features a second time-zone, day-night indicator, a large date and small seconds. And just for the extra particular horologists, there’s also a version of the “Cartier Drive” with a flying tourbillon 9452 MC, with a “Poiçon de Genève” certification.
The “Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon” which originally launched in 2014 with a platinum case and blue dial is back. This time around it’s enclosed in a 47mm made of pink gold. The watch gained its name from the use of polished meteorite stone for its two sub-dials.
The open-work dial on this timepiece is enriched by the pink gold grid created by the III, IIII, VIII and IX Roman numerals as it moves, along with its blue steel hands. Also features a terrestrial display showing local time and a second time zone indication represented by a 24 hour. While the other side has a lunar display with inter-dependent tourbillion and on-demand moon-phase indications.
The push-piece at the 2 o’clock position on this watch adjusts the second time zone indication. While the second push-piece at the 4 o’clock position activates a disc on demand, that slides across to conceal the tourbillion cage and reproduce the Moon’s shape in the sky.
This “Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon” is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 9440 MC, with 40 jewels and 362 moving parts. The power reserve on this timepiece can last up to 72 hours. This watch will be an exclusive limited edition of 15 numbered pieces.
Last year’s new comer the “Clé de Cartier” is back with a skeletonized version and the distinctive features it already possessed. The “key” (Clé in French) winding crown, which is fitted with a self-centering mechanism that can automatically put the crown in line with the side of the case after release. The 41mm case is made of polished palladium, with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, that renders the watch water-resistant up to 30 meters (100 feet).
This “Clé de Cartier” is powered by an in-house Cartier self-winding movement, caliber 9612 MC, the first skeleton movement with automatic winding. But, one of its most impressive elements is how the open-work design reveals the shape of Roman numerals as it goes through time.
Another flash from the past is the “Cartier Crash” after its platinum version, this year at SIHH it has returned in pink gold. By far one of the most intriguing watch design, due to its “wreckage” look. Legend has it that the inspiration came from a watch that was damaged in an accident and came out looking like this. Either way it’s now a tried and proven model in the Cartier collection.
The 28mm case in pink gold for this “Cartier Crash” is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 9618 MC, with 21 jewels and a power reserve lasting up to 72 hours.
More in synch with what comes to mind when we recall the ability of Cartier to master jewelry is this “Cartier Panthères Et Colibri” with an animated dial and an on-demand power reserve. This watch is clearly more about the design, than telling time.
The dial features a panther and a hummingbird (“colibri” is French for hummingbird). By pressing the crown you activate a dial animation, where we see a baby panther in pink gold emerge from under its mother, while the hummingbird fly’s along a curvature going counter-clockwise. The distance flown by this bird reveals the remaining power reserve, left in the watch.
(Video courtesy of: Timeforum)
The 42mm case is made of 18k white gold, with a panther in rhodium finished also in 18k white gold. The mother panther is set with 270 brilliant cut diamonds, with her spots in black laquer. Quite an impressive timepiece, even as more of a jewelry art piece, than a quick legible watch.
This“Cartier Panthères Et Colibri” is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 9915 MC, with 49 jewels. The power reserve on this watch can last up to 72 hours. Mounted to the timepiece is a black alligator strap, with a deployment folding clasp, featuring 43 brilliant cut diamonds.
Another visually stunning watch is the “Rotonde de Cartier Day/Night Retrograde Moon Phases”. The hours are marked by a rotating Sun/Moon disk, in which either a sun-ray or moon-rays point to the dial marker to show time from 6AM to 6PM for the Sun and 6PM to 6AM for Moon. While across the bottom half of the dial, a retrograde moon-phase indication shows the age and current phase of the moon.
And Cartier probably has some more watches coming down their sleeve, just a question of time before they are revealed. But, till then may this batch be a feast for the eyes and a reason to save up and splurge on some new collectible timepieces.
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