Originally the “Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater” debuted in 2016 and remains to this current day, the thinnest minute repeater in the horology market. At the time it was introduced made out of titanium and now in 2018 we welcome a carbon-fiber version.
We’ve reviewed other “Octo” models in the past like the “Bulgari Octo L’Originale Solotempo” (Ref#: 102858) which was a faithful reproduction of the original Gerald Genta designed watch, hence the moniker “L’Originale”. This model came with a very affordable price-tag, packed inside the iconic case as you can take a closer look at here.
And before that we covered the Baselworld 2016 editions which was compromised of three Bulgari models: an “Octo Solotempo”, an “Octo Velocissimo Chronograph” and the “Octo Finissimo Ultranero Tourbillon”. The release of the “Octo” with a tourbillion set a new record for thinnest tourbillon movement, measuring in at only 1.95mm; more information on those releases can be found here.
The 40mm case is made of CTP (Carbon Thin Ply) which is a thermos-setting epoxy resin reinforced with carbon fibers. Former versions of this minute-repeater were made out of titanium due to its combination of low density and relative stiffness prone to a low loss of energy, which also proved to be quite effective in transmitting sound.
Meanwhile carbon-fiber has increasingly been used in the crafting of musical instruments due to producing a pleasing tone and timbre, without any loss in quality, while also weighing less than wooden instruments.
Mounted to the case is also a CTP bezel and a setting-crown made of the same material, which works perfectly to amplify the sound of the minute repeater. The foot of the gongs have been attached directly to the case for a superior sound transmission. While on the flip-side is a transparent exhibition case back that allows to view the inner workings of the mechanical movement. All topped by a sapphire crystal that assists with water-resistance on this watch reaching up to 10 meters (33 feet).
Time is exhibited on a black dial also made of CTP like the case with cut-out hour index markers and the Arabic numeral for the 12 o’clock position. There is also a cut-out sub-seconds with white printed index markers. This “cut-out” style is very reminiscent of the “sandwich” dials produced by Officine Panerai.
But they differ because Panerai typically has a SuperLuminova phosphor disk underneath, while this Bulgari is cut-out and reveals glimpses into the moving gears underneath and the exhibition case back. The cut-out technique applied here by Bulgari is not only for aesthetics reasons, for it directly contributes to enhance the sound transmission of the minute-repeater. Also comes equipped with central rhodium hands to indicate current time.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon
This “Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon” (Ref#: N/A) is powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement, caliber BVL 362 with 36 jewels, 362 components and 21,600 Vph. Power reserve on this watch can last up to 52 hours, when fully wound. This caliber is based on a 1981 Gerald Genta movement that was thin enough to allow the Octo model to set the record for thinnest repeating wristwatch at 2.72mm high. The trade-back of such a slim movement was a lack of robustness, which is why the BVL 362 has been crafted slightly thicker at 3.12mm for a sturdier build.
Mounted to the watch is a Octo collection-style bracelet made from the same ultra-light Carbon Thin Ply matching the case and dial for a cohesive unity, while secured to the wrist by a CTP deployment clasp. This is a limited edition watch with only 50 manufactured pieces. For more up to date information visit the official Bulgari website here.
MSRP: $160,000.00 USD
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