With this addition Breguet is not only unveiling a new offering, it’s the start of a new era. Until now watch aficionados had become accustomed to what Breguet had to offer, but this new model line is a totally innovative direction technically and aesthetically for the brand.


Image courtesy of: Breguet

The 44mm case is made of either 18k rose gold or platinum, both with a transparent case-back that allows to view the inner movement. And quite a view it is on this particular watch that features: a windrose motif adorning the barrel as a reference to astronomical navigation; bridges engraved with a representation of the Royal Louis, which was a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy; and the oscillating weight ingeniously positioned on the rim of the caliber, avoids obstructing the view to these impressive decorations.


Image courtesy of: Breguet

The rose gold version frames a silvered dial and an anthracite movement, while the platinum interpretation has a blue dial and a rhodium-plated movement. They both also feature: central lugs with a combination of polished and satin-brushed surfaces; more open fluting with visible flanks; and a crown topped with a polished “B” over a sandblasted background.


Image courtesy of: Breguet

Time is exhibited with Roman numerals on both versions of this timepiece. And their front dial is finished with two types of engine-turning, which includes a “wave” pattern that perfectly complements the marine theme of this watch. Also an inscription reading “Marine Royale” has been engraved on the tourbillon bar.


Image courtesy of: Breguet

A perpetual calendar is seen on the upper half of the watch with Arabic numerals running from 1 to 31 along the IX to III Roman numerals. While the weekday can be seen between the 10 and 11 o’clock position; and the current month can be seen between the 1 and 2 o’clock positions. Other complications include: the power reserve running from the 7 to 8 o’clock position; a tourbillon at the 5 o’clock position and an “equation of time” complication was placed in the midst of the tourbillon.


Image courtesy of: Breguet

The “equation of time” included on this timepiece helped define and name this specific novelty watch model. It is one of the rarest horology complications, due to its peculiar function not being as pertinent as others, although quite interesting. Its use serves to differentiate between “mean solar time” that corresponds to standard hours and “true solar time” that means the actual solar hours and minutes. Officine Panerai has a modern timepiece with this same complication, the “Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio”.


Officine Panerai Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio * Image courtesy of: Officine Panerai

But, the brands have applied different approaches of visually representing this complication. The “Breguet Marine Equation Marchante” uses a special cam shaped in the form of a figure 8, which serves to mechanically reproduce the path of the sun’s successive positions, also known as an analemma curve.

analemma curve Breguet

Image courtesy of: Breguet

It requires an extremely accurate execution in order to indicate the -16 to +14 minutes of discrepancy that can be found between civil time VS solar time. Normally the user would find the discrepancy on a sub-dial and would have to do the math mentally; but, this Breguet supersedes that by simultaneously indicating civil time and true time with two separate minute hands.

Video courtesy of: Breguet

There are four distinct hands running around the dial. The two main hands for hours and minutes have dots on their tips; while a retrograde hand with an anchor tip indicates the current day of the month; and finally the hand adorned with a faceted golden sun is pointing out a direct reading of solar time minutes that in theory is quicker and more accurate. So, as the solar minute hand sweeps in a conventional way, it is followed by the civil minute hand with the dotted tip. Although as daily movement builds up the two hands will distance themselves according to the analemma curve, which will translate to the “equation of time”.


Image courtesy of: Breguet

Breguet Marine Equation Marchante 5887

This “Breguet Marine Equation Marchante 5887” (references below) is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 581DPE with 16¾  lines, 57 jewels and 28,800 Vph. Power reserve on this timepiece can last up to 80 hours, when fully wound. Mounted to the watch is depending on the model a brown or blue alligator strap, secured to the wrist by a gold folding clasp.


Ref#: 5887BR/12/9WV – 18k Red Gold * MSRP: $215,000.00 USD


Ref#: 5887PT/Y2/9WV – Platinum * MSRP: $230,000.00 USD


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Breguet, Marine, Equation of Time, Marchante, Luxury Watches

Written by Mauro Az