Releases keep pumping out as the year comes to a close, all as previews of what to expect at the upcoming horology fairs. The latest brand to tease us has been Breguet with their new “Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat”, a long awaited addition extending their “Grandes Complications” collection, destined for BaselWorld 2018.
The 42mm case will be available in either: 18k rose gold or platinum, both of which with a transparent case back that allows to view the inner workings of the mechanical movement. Crafted with a fluted caseband and thin lugs, similar to the wire lugs found commonly on the “Panerai Radiomir” models, but while those are rounded out, here they have edged corners.
Equipped with a setting-crown that bears the Breguet logo engraved on it. Yet one of the main highlights of this watch is its impressively 7mm slim casing, which still manages to house a highly crafted mechanical movement. This model is a direct descendant of the reference 5377 model. Water-resistance on this watch can last up to 30 meters (98 feet).
Time is exhibited on a whitish “Grande feu” enamel dial with black Arabic numerals accompanied by smaller round minute index markers circling around. But, things may seem a bit askew at first glance and that’s because they are. Breguet has opted for an off-center design with the dial leaning a bit more towards the 11 o’clock portion of the available space. There are other subtle yet finely incorporated details like different minute index markers for every five-minute increment, near the Arabic hour numerals.
This type of design and off-center approach is reminiscent of timepieces crafted by the great founder Abraham-Louis Breguet, back in the initial years that would cement Breguet as the luxury brand that has endured since 1810, making them on of the oldest surviving watch-makers in the horology business. They were the first to invent and introduce the tourbillon regulator technology, which here reappears in all its glory spread out between the 4 to 6 o’clock positions.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat
The “Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique” (Ref#: 5367) is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 581 with 42 jewels and 28,800 vph. Despite its apparent simple and classic front, its exhibition case back reveals a richly decorated movement, The bridges and oscillating weight have all been finely hand-engraved. Breguet crafted the weight out of platinum to provide a greater inertia, while it rotates on the periphery of the caliber, which also served to slim it down and provide a clear view of the movement. Power reserve on this watch can last up to 80 hours, when fully wound.
Mounted to the watch is either a: mahogany brown or blue alligator strap, both secured to the wrist by a folding deployment clasp, matching the metal of each selected version. BaselWorld will occur during the 22nd to 27th of March 2018. For more up to date information visit the official Breguet website here.
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