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Although this year Breguet will not be participating in the Baselworld trade fair we can still expect to see new watches of theirs hitting the market soon. A recent unveiling showcased the release of a new “Breguet Classique 5177 Grand Feu” that will be featuring an alluring dark blue enamel dial.

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A very similar model to this watch without the date-window was released by Breguet back in October 2017 to mark the reopening of Breguet’s Tokyo store, in the form of the “Breguet Classique 5175 Ginza Anniversary” (Ref#: 5175BB/2Y/9V6).

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“Breguet Classique 5175 Ginza Anniversary” (Ref#: 5175BB/2Y/9V6)

But, this was a very exclusive limited edition of only ten manufactured pieces, specifically for the Japanese market. Now Breguet makes this a current-production piece, which should come as a delight to many horologists, while also dampening the joy of those who bought the “Ginza” with its exclusivity in mind.

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“Breguet Classique 5175 Ginza Anniversary” (Ref#: 5175BB/2Y/9V6)

The new “Breguet Classique 5177” also comes in a 38mm case made of 18k white gold. It retains all of the characteristics that usually accompany this models casing, such as a fluted caseband circling the entire circumference of its case;

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as well as thin protruding lugs that provide a comfortable wrist fit. It also comes equipped with a setting crown that features an engraving of the “B” from Breguet’s logo.

The transparent exhibition case back allows to view the inner workings of the mechanical movement, which includes an 18k white-gold rotor weight. Some may appreciate the intricate patterns seen on the rotor weight, while others may feel it covers up to much of the movement. All topped by a sapphire crystal that also assists with water-resistance on this watch being able to reach up to 30 meters (98 feet).

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Time is exhibited on an alluring enamel dial with Arabic numerals, followed by a ring of small minute index markers with diamond-shaped markings for every 15-minute increment. These numerals and markers have been crafted and applied in silver via a pad-printing technique. The Arabic numerals we find here are the distinctive font designed by A.L. Breguet, who despite not being a calligraphist conceived a functional and elegant design.

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At a closer look one can decipher and appreciate that the minute index markers are composed of tiny stars, with stylized fleur-de-lys for every 5-minute interval. This star minute track is inspired by the antique Breguet pocket watches that were characterized by them; as well as the use of enamel on their dials.

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Antique Breguet pocket watch with enamel dial.

The process of making enamel requires firing up an oven to 800 degrees Celsius and carefully timing the exposure an duration of elements to the heat.

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Afterwards the Arabic numerals and the various markings that compose the ring of minute index markers is applied with powdered silver.

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The central hands are made of rhodium-plated steel, while shaped in the founder’s celebrated hollow, eccentric “moon” tip hands, which has been a differentiating characteristic on many Breguet models, for over two centenaries now.

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There is also a date aperture at the 3 o’clock position, which some find to be an awkward placing. It doesn’t even require a close inspection to understand this critique and agree that perhaps placing the date aperture between a pair of numerals could have provided a less obfuscating choice.

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Breguet Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel

This “Breguet Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel” (Ref#: 5177BB/2Y/9V6) is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 777Q with 26 jewels and 21,600 vph. It comes equipped with a balance spring, lever and escape wheel made of silicon. After the acquisition of Lemania by Breguet this became officially an in-house movement. Power reserve on this watch can last up to 55 hours, when fully wound.

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Mounted to the watch is a blue alligator leather strap, secured to the wrist by an 18k white gold folding deployment clasp. For more information visit the official Breguet website here.

MSRP: $22,000.00 USD

EiT round LOGO WITH LESS white space

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Breguet, Classique, Grand Feu, Enamel, Luxury Watches

Written by Mauro Az